Though many climbing helmets may be small and lightweight in design, the best climbing helmets offer maximum comfort despite their size.
This is particularly true of those that prioritize safety over comfort.
EPS foam was once the standard material used for helmets, but its fragility can lead to fracture and crushing when hit against something hard, even while just moving or carrying heavy gear in your pack.
Because of this issue, some models use polycarbonate shells which provide greater durability.
1. Petzl Sirocco
Petzl's Sirocco helmet stands as one of the lightest fully compliant UIAA compliant helmets we have tested at 170 grams for our largest size test sample.
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Petzl Sirocco: Maximum protection without the weight, perfect for every ascent |
With its low profile design and superior ventilation system, its low profile ensures all-day comfort while its thin padding covers only where needed - on top of head/brow, while lightweight straps/buckles make wearing easier.
Its combination crown consists of EPP (expanded polypropylene) and an impact resistant polycarbonate cap, both designed to dissipate energy more efficiently than EPS foam and add an additional layer of safety.
The Sirocco has an easy yet effective webbing harness on its back and under the chin with one-hand pull functionality for quick adjustment.
While not offering as much adjustability as plastic slider bars or click wheels, its webbing design provides a comfortable fit right out of the box - including clips for attaching hats if desired and wearing with or without its chin strap up/down depending on personal preference.
Unfortunately it can sometimes "catch" and snag onto clips on other models in your rucksack which makes use / use unnecessary.
2. Black Diamond Half Dome
BD have enhanced their classic Half Dome climbing helmet by adding a low-profile suspension system, one-handed dial, and sleek headlamp clips - creating an extremely comfortable experience at an excellent value for money.
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Stay secure and comfortable with the Black Diamond Half Dome—your perfect partner for all climbing adventures |
We believe it to be the ideal budget climbing helmet.
The padding of this headlamp provides comfort, while its click-wheel adjustment makes finding the ideal fit easy and quick.
Additionally, its well-designed chin strap and headlamp clips are easy to use - plus the visor can even be flipped up on steep climbs to provide sun protection - plus look really cool too!
As with other exposed foam designs, this climbing helmet may not be as robust as one like the Petzl Sirocco but should still provide ample protection during a day in the mountains.
We've witnessed lighter helmets crack when forced into backpacks or hit by sharp rocks so this seems like an appropriate compromise as an entry level climbing helmet.
3. Petzl Boreo
The Petzl Boreo provides an ideal combination of low weight and durability.
Its hard plastic ABS shell protects an EPS foam inner to disperse impact forces effectively.
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Petzl Boreo: Lightweight, tough, and designed for the most demanding climbing conditions |
In addition, this helmet passed Petzl's in-house testing protocol for frontal and side impact impacts for an added layer of safety that not all helmets achieve.
At 7.6 ounces for the S/M model, the Boreo is around two ounces lighter than comparable hard-shell options (including Black Diamond's budget Half Dome and sleek Sirocco below).
As such, this option is an excellent option for new climbers or those who prioritize style over weight.
Petzl also makes a women's version of the Boreo with sleeker lines for an aesthetic more suitable to female wearers, and includes space for pony tails if desired.
Additionally, unlike most unisex climbing helmets, the Boreo features an adjustable dial running all the way up to your temples that allows you to adjust it snugly while remaining comfortable;
additionally it fits with most head harnesses comfortably - making this helmet an all-in-one solution perfect for climbing, canyoning and even ice climbing activities alike!
4. Black Diamond Capitan
As helmet technology rapidly evolves, it can be easy to forget that tried-and-true designs still serve their purpose.
One such workhors is the Black Diamond Capitan, providing top, back, and side impact protection at an attractive price point. Furthermore, it meets proposed UIAA standards for increased front/rear head protection.
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Black Diamond Capitan: Durable and dependable, your ultimate helmet for every rock face |
As with the Sirocco above, the Capitan combines EPP and EPS foams with a durable polycarbonate shell to form a high-performing, well ventilated all-rounder that should withstand compression while descending large walls without suffering irreparable damage.
Though not as light as other helmets in this list, the Capitan is an excellent option for beginner climbers who require something that should last and is one of the cheapest choices here - making it an affordable solution.
It features robust construction with easily adjustable suspension for all kinds of climbing activities, plus women can find one specifically tailored to accommodate ponytails!
5. Petzl Vision
The Petzl Vision helmet has become one of the most beloved choices available due to its combination of low weight, durable construction, and affordable pricing.
Ideal for beginner climbers or anyone in search of an economical helmet that will last years on end.
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Petzl Vision: Lightweight, tough, and engineered for unbeatable protection on every climb |
Climbers wear helmets for extended periods, so comfort is of utmost importance.
A variety of adjustment options offers custom fits, with lightweight straps and buckles keeping the helmet secure while making use of gloves easier. Some models feature back-click wheels for quick adjustment with gloves on - though over time this system may loosen over time so it is important to check regularly - also take accurate measurements or try-on before purchasing!
Modern climbing helmets feature both shock-absorbing foam and hard shell to help safeguard against falls or other mishaps, with expanded polystyrene (EPS) foam being the most widely used material for this purpose.
While EPS may feel hard when touched, its core is porous enough to crumple under impacts absorbing much of their impact energy while EPP foam offers greater durability and protection than its EPS counterpart.
Here are five FAQs about the best climbing helmets, along with their answers:
1. What is the difference between hard shell and foam climbing helmets?
Answer:
- Hard shell helmets are made with a durable outer plastic shell and an inner foam liner. They offer excellent protection against falling debris and are known for their durability, making them ideal for activities like alpine or big wall climbing.
- Foam helmets are lighter and made primarily from expanded polystyrene (EPS) or expanded polypropylene (EPP) foam. They excel at absorbing impact from falls but are more prone to damage from everyday wear. Foam helmets are great for sport and trad climbing, where weight matters more than durability.
2. What key features should I consider when choosing the best climbing helmet?
Answer:
- Fit and Adjustability: A good helmet should have a secure, snug fit with adjustable straps and a dial-fit system to accommodate different head shapes.
- Ventilation: Opt for a helmet with proper ventilation to keep your head cool during long climbs.
- Weight: Lightweight helmets reduce fatigue, making them ideal for longer climbs where comfort is a priority.
- Durability: For rugged conditions, choose a helmet with a strong outer shell for better resistance to rough use and falling debris.
- Headlamp Compatibility: Look for clips or attachments that allow you to secure a headlamp for night or cave climbing.
3. Can one helmet be used for different types of climbing (e.g., sport, alpine, ice)?
Answer: Yes, some helmets are versatile enough for different types of climbing, but it’s important to match the helmet to the activity. Foam helmets are lighter and better suited for sport climbing, while hard shell helmets provide better protection in alpine and ice climbing scenarios where falling rocks or ice are more common. If you participate in multiple types of climbing, a hybrid helmet that balances weight and durability may be your best choice.
4. How do I know if my climbing helmet fits properly?
Answer: A properly fitting climbing helmet should:
- Sit level on your head, with the front edge resting just above your eyebrows.
- Be snug but not uncomfortably tight—there should be no excessive movement when you shake your head.
- Include adjustable straps that secure comfortably under the chin without pinching.
- Use the helmet’s dial or adjuster to achieve a custom fit, ensuring there are no gaps between your head and the padding inside the helmet.
5. How often should I replace my climbing helmet?
Answer: Most climbing helmets should be replaced every 5-10 years, depending on the manufacturer’s recommendations and the extent of use. However, if your helmet experiences a significant impact (from a fall or a heavy object hitting it), it should be replaced immediately, even if there are no visible signs of damage. Regularly inspect your helmet for cracks, dents, or other signs of wear, as these can compromise its protective capabilities over time.
Conclusion
Climbing helmets are an essential piece of safety gear that protect you from falling debris, impacts, and head injuries, whether you're scaling rock walls, ice faces, or alpine routes. Choosing the right helmet means balancing weight, durability, and comfort, tailored to your specific climbing style and environment. With advances in design, modern helmets offer greater protection, ventilation, and headlamp compatibility, ensuring that climbers stay both safe and comfortable on their adventures. Investing in a high-quality climbing helmet is not just about safety—it’s about gaining the confidence to push your limits, knowing you're well-protected on every ascent.
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